StayedOnFreedomsCallGoodReads

A book 15 years overdue, and my arrival in Izmir, with a small side of neo-colonialism

(Updating this because it is pertinent: Posted in 2020… THen updated again in 2023: This is why one should never use the copy post button, which I do not understand why it is there, as it is actually counterproductive…)

Just over five years ago, I finally published a book that should have been written ten years before that. So, I figure that my book on Black-Jewish cooperation (ok, in DC, not in Izmir, but they are both international cities, after all…) pretty well pre-figures the cooperation between myself, being Black, and Channon, being Jewish, as I hosted him as a guest in my newly rented apartment in my newly moved to city of Izmir, formerly known as Smyrna. What follows is a story of some of the travelling he actually forced me to do when he got there to visit, since I’d done nothing but work my whole time there! So, once again, thanks to cooperation, having a guest is a Mitzvah that both win from. I’d forgotten about that group of Brits buying up land in Turkey: keep reading to see that side of neo-col!

I came across an old blog post from the first visit that a friend (Channon, aka Craig, may his memory be for a blessing) made to Izmir, staying as my guest for a week before bicycling across Turkey, then down around the south, to come back up to Izmir and spend another week with me before leaving for Africa.

My original post:

A post I missed: visit from fellow Havnik abt April of 2005

Chanon in izmir

recent travels -Efes, Milet, Bergama (Ephesus, Miletos, Pergamum)

Ok, İ am really glad that Craig is here as a guest because that has given me the impetus to do some much-needed travelling.

We went to see Ephesus, the ancient city with the great library. İt is amazing. Inscrptions in Latin and Greek (mostly Greek) reminded me that İ do in fact want to learn several different varieties of Greek. the library is richly decorated, and very imposing, even in its current state.
The well-preserved ampitheater had absolutely amazing acoustics! İ litterally whispered and Chanon could hear me half-way up the stairs!

The temple of Apollo in the town of Didim retains its magnificence after more than 2000 years. No inscriptions to be seen, but the temple site is quite impressive enough as it stands.

Miletos has a weed-grown complex including an ampitheater and other buildings we did not see.

During our trips we did a good bit of walking, and were pleasantly surprised with many offers for rides. İn Ephesus (Efes in Turkish) we were given rides (unsolicited) by a man selling carpets, and then by a servis van driver on the way up to the site, then by car full of soldiers on our walk back down from the site. The following trip allowed us to meet a man who drove a truck carrying Aygaz (propane gas) on the way to Mılet, Ergul Hanım, a nice lady who offered us a ride in her car as we walked to the beach in the town of Didim after seeing the Apollyon (temple of apollo). At the beach we met 5 British ex-pats who are living near Didim, and listened in on their discussion of real-estate here. That confirmed what a Turkish person told me earlier about the Turkish government being worried about Brits buying up lots of land -they complained about new restrictions on their ability to buy property and resell to other Brits. They also seemed not to have made much effort to learn Turkish, so İ can understand Turkish hesitation at having a large British enclave. The area clearly caters to Brits, with many pubs and British spelling everywhere. they were quıte nice to us, pointing us in the direction of Miletos (Milet in Turkish) after buying us drinks. We talked of the differences in outlook between the ancient Hellenic world and Jewish general feelings regarding modesty, perfection, beauty, slavery and İ realized that my high regard for ancient greek ideals may be at odds with Jewish thinking (at least Chanon’s point of view on Jewish thinking). İnteresting conflict. I admire beauty, strength (both of character and female physical power), general well-rounded ness (the ability to do many things reasonably well, being well-read in many subjects, etc). He contrasts this with an idea of covering and doing one thing very well. We should talk more about that…

We were offered a ride by the gate-keeper at the ruins of Miletos, who actually called a friend of his to give us a ride to the mini-bus stop 4 km away. They were heading toward Sure, but it was nice to have a short talk with them along the way. they are archeologists working at the museum, which was closed at the time we were there. We also met some students doing geo-physical survey, to scan underground for ancient sites. I have got to study archeology!

p.s. -in case İ forgot to say, İ also went with my South Korean hotel neighbor a few weeks ago to see Pergamum, where the ancient church is built on top of a more ancient temple dedicated to the Egyptian god -uh, I forgot…

Yassas,   γεια σας!    Salût !  Nos vemos!  Görüşürüz!     ! שָׁלוֹם

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Shira

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Shira Destinie Jones’ work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

About ShiraDestProjectDoBetter

D. Antonia ("Nia") Jones is founder of #ProjectDoBetter, a long term plan proposal for community building, and a published poet, academic author, and advocate for improving our #PublicDomainInfrastructure. Her other book, Stayed on Freedom's Call, on Black-Jewish Cooperation in DC, is freely available via the Internet Archive. She has organized community events such as film discussions, multi-ethnic song events, and cooperative presentations, and is a native of Washington, DC. She promotes peaceful planning, NVC and the Holocene Calendar, and is also a writer. More information at https://shiradest.wordpress.com/

34 thoughts on “A book 15 years overdue, and my arrival in Izmir, with a small side of neo-colonialism

    1. Hah, the weather is not so nice up in Istanbul in the winter!! Freezing rain and ice most of the winter I was there, and it was a relief when it snowed, without sleeting first! Just as bad as winters in DC!!

      And in Izmir, it wasn’t as cold, but practically no one had decent heating or hot running water! My water heater kept shocking me every time I took a shower, until I finally managed to get it replaced, but for hand washing most of the time I had to make do with cold water (so now I appreciate hot running water a great deal more!!), and all of my neighbors chided me daily for using the tap water to make soup and tea! This was in a middle middle class neighborhood of Izmir, so almost no one had cars (back in 2005 they were still an upper class luxury), and there was no central heating. So, it still felt as cold as a bad winter, and I was still ill most of the summer! (partly due to my university having air conditioning running too cold during the summer, and my neighbors’ cigarette smoke coming into my bathroom…)

      Liked by 2 people

      1. Wow, yes, I guess you appreciate the things that we normally take for granted a lot more after that experience. I have only been once to Turkey, with my family on vacation, when I was 12 years old, that must have been in 1967. The bridge over the Bosporus was not built yet at that time. My father was the adventurer in our family.

        Liked by 2 people

          1. Yes, but we only crossed twice, we stayed in Yallova on the other side of the Bosporus, then a very small town.
            We went by car by the way, 4.5 days. When we went over the border from Bulgaria (at that time communist) to Turkey and entered Edirne, it was like another world, the world of “Thousand and one nights”, people moving around riding on horses etc., and the muezzin still had to climb up all the minarets to call the believers, whereas now they have loudspeakers. My father always claimed he was an atheist, but he was very much attracted by islamic countries for one or the other reasons.

            Liked by 2 people

            1. Oh, Yallova still brings me back memories of the big earthquake there in 2004, although I was not there for it.

              I’ve also always loved the sound of the muezzin, and if Islam had had a more feminist track available, I might have converted, but I am also mostly an atheist at heart.

              Wow, from the Soviet Bulgaria into a still mostly undeveloped Turkey. That must have been interesting!

              (ugh, the loudspeakers! I had a room right next to one and was awakened every single morning, before I found an apartment!)
              Turkish Islam is so different from other forms of Islam that I love to look into the history (especially after being told by a Syrian man not to study Islam in Turkey, because he didn’t consider them to be ‘real’ muslims!).

              Liked by 1 person

            2. The travel was exciting!
              In that resort for rich people, they were not really rushing to the mosque when the loudspeakers called, if you catch my drift.

              Liked by 2 people

            3. We had an intern from Turkey in 2004 who told us about the earthquake, especially in Cinarcic, where his grandmother had a Condo. When we were there, Cinarcic was a village, no Condos whatsoever, one tiny hotel with four rooms.

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      2. Ha, not true, I was in 2013 with work in a holiday resort for rich Turks. We were supposed to be in Izmir, but there were upheavels at that time and it was deemed unsafe.

        Liked by 2 people

        1. What, the winter in Izmir feeling like a bad winter? Well, maybe 2005 was especially cold, or maybe it was just me, but by the time I moved down from Istanbul, I felt like a snowball!! It was as bad as the Washington, DC winters, up there, and part of the Sea of Marmara actually froze over in December of 2004!
          To me, that’s pretty cold!
          🙂

          Liked by 2 people

          1. Dear Shira, the “Ha, not true” was meant for my first comment, in which I said that I have been in Turkey only once … 😉
            I have never been in Turkey during winter, only in July and in September, so I won’t know. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
            But I won’t ever counter anybody’s statement with a “Ha, not true” but my own. 🙂

            Liked by 1 person

  1. “…having a guest is a Mitzvah that both win from. ”

    Yup:
    or
    “Tanrı misafiri sever, değil mi?”

    as Leyla Hanım says, in talking her way in the door of Hakan’s reluctant neighbors, before anyone, even he, believes that he is the Muhafız!
    🙂

    (Episode 2, I think, of The Protector…)

    Liked by 3 people

    1. Thanks! Did you see the earlier one with the limerick? I linked it last week.
      I’m so glad that I found and updated those two (oops, this one, as the other one still needs updating, I think): Chanon died a few years ago, and this has been a way to recall his zany trip across Europe and Africa, while stopping in Izmir to force me to get out and travel a bit! I’m still grateful to him for that, may his memory be for a blessing.

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